Not Enough Thursdays

It was good while it lasted

2009-09-15T12:43:00.000-07:00

Well, this is it. Hannah and I are throwing in the towel and shutting down Not Enough Thursdays. We are both forbidden to post about our day jobs and their related projects which leaves us little time and few projects to post about. It has worked out alright until recently but Smith and Bybee has started picking up for me and I don't feel comfortable posting about our patterns for that either. What does this leave me? There are a few tutorials that I have always wanted to write and some amazing links for information but no time. I believe I no longer have the time or the lifestyle to blog. I wish everybody the best of luck on their sewing, design, art, and every other sort of project. I will leave the site up for the time being in case anybody wants anything. Enjoy the end of summer.
-Carly

New Studio!

2009-08-10T08:17:00.000-07:00

I'm sorry for the extended radio silence. I have been working on putting together a new studio in my basement. We had a very large room that use to be somebody's band recording studio in our basement. Between the paint job and the foam and carpeting tacked to the walls, it had a very creepy feel. However it has now been re-purposed into a rather nice new sewing studio. Nate and I (Smith and Bybee) are working on getting a five by ten foot work table which will be a massive step up. However even without that we have enough room to have two people working at once. It amazing how much different a studio needs to be when its not just one person. Our biggest issue was finding the space to have one person pattern and one person cut. We will see how goes.

There is also a great website I found recently that is a good multi purpose design site. The categories on the side bar are my favorite. It's called Toxel

And one last update that I will follow up on later. I am learning to make gloves. I have my prototype worked out for my basic pattern and I'm going to get started on my first real pair here in the near future. I will also scan and post my patterns when I done. If you are interested, most of what I used to figure it out can be found here or through the Vintage sewing link on the side bar.

More information than you can shake a stick at

2009-07-16T15:44:00.000-07:00

I imagine that I must be late to the bandwagon on this because I can't believe I didn't know this existed. It is the combination of google/amazon/library of congress. You can look through and download all kinds of books whose copyrights have long since expired. Here is a link to their dress making books. I have yet to try pattern making as a search heading but sewing turns up a lot of Samplers and embroidery instruction.
Have fun and praise the gods of the internet.

Fruits of forced leisure

2009-07-12T08:47:00.001-07:00

Sick sick sick with a stupid summertime cold preventing me from biking and beach adventures. I'm instead internet surfing while drinking large quantities of orange juice.

Pendleton has collaborated with Opening Ceremony, resulting in a predictably fantastic collection. These two coats are my favorites.

I'm REALLY late on the All Saints bandwagon. But now that I'm on it, hot damn. I haven't been sewing for myself at all lately, but their website provides some serious inspiration. Not only do I love most of what they've got, but a lot of it all looks like so much fun to drape and pattern. A little bit of a challenge, but not so much it's frustrating.
This is the best coat I've seen in a long time:

Oh, Alexander Wang. How do you know what we want before we do?
This vesty-thing is peeerfect. It spells the end nights out trying to dance with a purse banging against your side. I'm unabashedly planning to rip it off, now that I've gathered all the supplies needed for sewing leather, and discovered that hides of various types can be procured on ebay for less than ten dollars.

(Those booties would look cute on someone else...)

2009-06-21T21:12:00.000-07:00

More photos from the mess on my desktop (all have been pulled from sites like the Sartorialist, Facehunter, etc).
These are dedicated to the beauty and intrigue of genuinely personal style.

What gets us through the day

2009-06-20T07:40:00.000-07:00

I recently recovered my Ipod after having lost it for several months. (This sort of thing is fairly common. Yesterday I lost a pattern piece under another pattern piece that I had already taped to a marker.) Having it at work again is such a relief, since the white noise of the air conditioner and sewing machines, and even the quieter music in the studio makes me sleepy. Yesterday I had it on shuffle, and a Kanye West song came up and I thought of you, Carly. (Am I outing you right now?) Carly and I were recently talking about the music that will get us through the stretches when we just want curl up and go to sleep. Quality is less important than poppy energy and good hooks. Carly's recent pre-fashion show marathon was apparently powered by Kanye's 808's and Heartbreaks, and Missy Elliot. Here's my favorite picture of Kanye:

In the past my favorites have included Billy Idol, Tom Jones and Prince. Lately I've elevated my tastes just a tad to Hercules and Love Affair.
Britney's Blackout got many of us at Nicolas' studio through the 4pm stretch, to the point that Nicolas regretted ever buying the album. I loved it when high fashion folks came by for a fitting while she was on. And for a long time I listened to podcasts of NPR programs like This American Life or Radiolab while doing the boring bits like putting on seam allowance and cutting out patterns. I had to give that up though, when I realized how often I discovered and fixed mistakes if I instead paid attention.
At the moment I've been listening to a short playlist of the Valentine Brother's "Money's Too Tight to Mention" and the Bee Gee's "Nights on Broadway". Two songs get old really quick. Maybe that's why my productivity's been down?

2009-06-20T07:37:00.000-07:00

Sometimes I forget what a little slashing and spreading can do.

From the Desktop Pile

2009-06-15T20:24:00.000-07:00

It's nearly midnight, and I can't sleep because I spent the day guzzling coffee at work in order to deal with my sleepless red-eye flight back from Alaska. The fact that it's currently only 7:30 pm Alaska time doesn't help either.
So a blog post it is! Not a particularly wordy one though, as I'm not feeling articulate, or even all human.
I promised Carly that I'd post some of the inspirational pictures I've been collecting on my desktop, so here goes:
It may seem odd that as patternmaker I'm a sucker for instant gratification, but I am. Carly can spend 3 weeks (but usually she'll be done in a quarter of that time) on a gorgeous gown, but I want to be done and wearing my project by noon. Which means I rarely finish, but I digress. I've been collecting photos of details, little things that I love that can be made without a whole lot of planning, but still to dramatic effect. This scarf is one of my favorites.

And the collar on this coat is one of the those simple details that changes everything.

And, because I was just home visiting, and thinking a lot about what makes a house a home, here are some of my favorite inspirational photos ever. I wish I remembered where I'd found them...

You can tell there's a million treasures in that house, just waiting to be taken out and examined. And there's a block and tackle in the bedroom?

New York City!

2009-06-15T09:59:00.001-07:00

As our heading suggests this blog was started because Hannah moved to New York and we couldn't bear the idea that we would no longer be hanging out together, messing around with projects, talking shop, basking on the river, eating pastries, or otherwise enjoying each others company. My recent trip to NY was a wonderful teaser of Hannah's company that makes it all the more difficult to bear.

We had a wonderful time. We went to a tugboat grave yard on Staton Island with two awesome guys, both named Collin. Collin Kennedy took some wonderful pictures which you can see here.

We took a harrowing taxi ride after a late night dance party. Matt of Wilding fame, Hannah, and myself caught a cab driven by a older east Indian man wearing an American flag turban who insisted on walking us through some sort of made up Hindi wedding ceremony. It involved having Matt put bangles on our hands and me put a scarf on Matt and then he sang us made up Hindi wedding songs in a strange, rasping, tuneless, old man voice. I'm not sure Hindi customs allow polyamorous wedding ceremonies but maybe everybody's more open minded in NY.

I went to the New York Public Library and read turn of the century pattern drafting books on microfilm. It amazes me the amount of information that exists in New York, for less effort than going to the supermarket you can read books that have been out of print for decades.

We got a back stage tour of the model making studio of the Natural History museum. Which has made me want to lean as much as I can about model making. I have trouble thinking of anything I really need to make models of but I also can't thing of anything I don't want to make models of. Perhaps I will wind up with plaster replicas of my daily life.
Here's Hannah and I attempting to eat a cookie afterward.

I also got to check out Top Shop which is about what you would expect. I'm not a fan of H and M mostly because everything I've ever gotten there fits horribly. I think that they must cut costs in their patterning but I'm not sure how they do it. Top Shop has a similar feel. If you are into H and M you will probably like Top Shop. There were a couple cute things but the only thing that really caught my eye was these shoes by Office. I would have bought them on the spot but the sides are too high and chafed my ankle bone something fierce.

Here is Hannah and Matt, we were enjoying the beach the day I left. Leaving was not easy.

And last but not least... I took a picture of a picture in a book because I thought it was great inspiration on how to wear scarves.

Summer adventures

2009-06-15T08:27:00.000-07:00

I have recently gotten back from some pretty amazing summer adventures. I had the good fortune of being invited on a rafting trip through the wild and scenic portion of the Rogue River in South Western Oregon. The Rogue River runs from Crater Lake to Gold Beach and the Wild and Scenic area starts just west of Grant's Pass and ends about ten miles from the coast. The "Wild and Scenic" designation protects the area from development, and in this case motorized boats of any kind. After going on this trip I can see why it was selected for protection. It is quite stunning and a perfect combo of rapids. Most are II and III class rapids meaning scary enough to be fun but if you get thrown from the boat its unlikely you'll get hurt. (Not the official definition obviously.) Although there were some IVs and one V, which was pretty scary. There are also a limited number of rafting permits given out each year for the wild and scenic area so I was doubly lucky to be able to go. There was twenty five of us on ten boats. There were some Cata-rafts, a paddle boat, and some kayaks.

Heating & Cooling @ STRUT.

2009-05-19T21:58:00.001-07:00

Here are some additional pictures from the Strut show which feature the debut of my Spring Collection. Photos were supplied from www.osiphotography.com I f you weren't able to make it to the show, it's not too late to contribute to the cause! All photo purchased from Onscreen Imaging's site, will go to benefit BasicRights Oregon. Thank you for looking and please visit my site: www.heatingandcoolingapparel.com

Strut

2009-05-19T18:26:00.000-07:00

I just want to congratulate Jessie on her first fashion show.
People were out in force raising money, mingling, kanoodling and trying to figure out how the bar worked. I ran into Adam Arnold and Sharon Blair for starters. Adam had on a beautiful denim sports coat that sparked a good discussion on the appropriate uses for denim. And Sharon Blair was there in the VIP section.
In general the clothing being shown was alright, very little of it totally floored me but there were some highlights. There were some pretty good Boob flounces.

Popina Swim put on a pretty good show including this crowd pleaser.

There were a lot of Pendelton wools used in knit wear by Erhart which was occationally cool in concept but wound up with strange pooching, and stretching issues that you might imagine with that combo. Notice the pocket flaps on the guy in the middle, and the way they seem to stick straight out from his chest. There was one point where a girl took off her jacket and threw it over her shoulder exposing an unappetizing interior. Oh well.

And now what you all have been waiting for...
(And I have to appologize for the format of the photos because my camera died almost immediately.)
Jessie's line was a ton of fun. The girls shirts were all drapy or key holed in such a way that I was sure that we would see some nipple, especially after the Forecast show. However I suspect that there was some cunning deployed double stick tape. It was the opposite of a wardrobe malfunction it was a wardrobe success! There was a sneak peak of the senior collection pants.

Shown Here with a super cute shirt.
These were my other favorites.
Wow!
Cool!
Nice work Jessie.

Here is Susanna, Olivia, and myself enjoying the free photo booth.

Sewing angels

2009-05-17T10:07:00.000-07:00

I have been exceptionally blessed in the sewing connections I have made in my life. In the last few months I have become more involved with my sewing and with fashion in general. I have been so grateful for all of the information that I have picked up over the years and the wonderful people who have kept me interested, stretched my sense of myself, and offered new perspectives into my craft.

My first paid sewing job was at Desert Vintage in Tucson AZ. Kathleen Lauth who owns it is a fantastic woman with a big heart and a great eye. She hired me within two days of my arrival and introduced me to the study of clothing history. She took my affection for vintages dresses and made me a fiend for the details of construction and dating. She keeps threatening to get a website but she hasn't yet so I can't link you to her. If however you are in Tucson you should definitely check it out.

Desert Vintage & Costume
636 N 4th Ave
Tucson, AZ 85705
(520) 620-1570

When I got back to portland I got a sewing job at Beckel Canvas. I learned so much about the nature of production. I learned the importance of creating a series of steps and refining them to create the most efficient sewing system you can. From Bob Beckel I learned how to work on industrial sewing machines. Being able to maintenance my own machine is a skill of almost infinite value. I learned how to work with the machines, taking what they had to offer and not fighting it. Skills that include sewing together two pieces of different sizes, round edges to straight edges, or both at once in thick fabric. I worked with many different types of difficult fabrics often on a very large scale with minimal tools and I can tell you that everything else seems easy after that.

Through Beckel I met a cadre of wonderful people who all love to sew.
Hannah whom you all know and love. She more than anybody helped me think of my sewing as an art and not just a job. She helped me feel excited about all of the different places I wanted to take my sewing. She has been a wonderful friend and a priceless sewing buddy. I will always be in her debt.

Taylor who, with her husband Travis did T-Rex. Her charisma and unfailing sense of fun and color were always inspirational.

David Rafn whom you don't know yet but when he breaks out he will take Portland by storm. To see his work you will have to come to the Art Institute thesis show. Which you should do anyway because you will get to see more of Jessie's stuff.

On the side all this time I was doing piece work for Amy Daileda of Daisy Rock. She makes a beautiful, high quality product. She dyes all her own fabrics and has a wonderful eye for textiles. I had a great time working with her and loved seeing the color and texture combos she came up with.

I have also worked with Jennifer Philip of Phillips Bridal. This woman is a power house of sewing. She can make dresses at a speed that will make your head spin. I once saw her hem a wedding dress in just under five min. Her speed is not at the price of quality, everything she does is beautiful, uncompromising, quality. She takes nobody's word as gospel and finds perfectly, cleanly, useful ways to do everything. From her I learned to not be timid and even the softest silks or most elaborate beading are just raw materials to be used in the same way canvas or shirting is. If you were thinking of getting married and buying a high end dress I would strongly recommend going to Jennifer with your ideas because you could get a better made, custom fit gown for less money. Take my word for it. I have seen the inside of all those gowns and her work out strips them.

I have also worked for Laglitz Leather, a place that makes very high quality custom leather motorcycle gear. Although I learned some about the construction of jackets and more about working with leather most of what I learned was what not to do. I can't underestimate the value of respecting your production stitchers. These were very talented women who had the capacity to make wonderful garments but the management had no interest in listening to them. Langlitz missed some very valuable chances to improve their quality, efficiency, and thus their bottom line. The people sewing your garments know more about how they go together and what it would take to make the operation smoother than anybody else in the system. If you ever manage stitchers, please ask them because I can guarantee they have a ton of ad hoc solutions to problems from earlier in the chain.

I would also like to mention Kathleen Fasanella of Fashion Incubator because although I haven't worked with her she has helped to shape my concepts of sewing. The frustrations I have had with the methods that I found in sewing books are not my own imagination. The fact that books have contradictory information is not because I'm stupid and don't get it. There is a whole community of people who also problem solve for a living and they have figured out many of these things. Her tutorials mean that I don't have to reinvent the wheel every time I sit down at a sewing machine. I would also like to apologize for anybody who might take my placket tutorial to heart. Please go read Kathleen's and then donate money. Its plain stupid to do it any other way.

I have intentionally left out Jessie because I want to do a post on her and the Awesome! show she put on last night. So that's coming next.

Forecast II Video!

2009-05-03T07:41:00.000-07:00

Left to Right: Jordan, Me (trying to be shorter), Russell, Bruce, Joe (Who is responsible for this photo) and finally the other member of Smith and Bybee Nathaniel Shapiro.

Smith and Bybee Video

Forcast

2009-04-30T13:57:00.000-07:00

I'm sorry I have been slow on getting pictures up but I was back stage the whole time and couldn't take photos. I'm waiting to hear back from some folks who took pics so there should be more. We also are going to have a real shoot sometime soon so you can see more photos then. These photos are stolen from the mercury and Love Portland. There should be more and some video coming.

This is Russell wearing our striped shirt and work pants.

Sarah Wizemann

John Blasioli

John Blasioli

Frocky Jack Morgan

Frocky Jack Morgan

STRUT

2009-04-15T15:53:00.000-07:00

STRUT has announced their lineup for the May 16th show, and I am excited to be a part of it! I will be debuting the apparel side of my line, Heating & Cooling. I plan to show eight looks, four mens and four women's. All proceeds go to benefit Basic Rights Oregon, so come check it out! www.strutpdx.com

More info

2009-04-12T08:29:00.000-07:00

As per Alison Cumming comment I wanted to clarify my issue. The difference in FI's tutorial and my own is mostly a two part placket vs a one part placket. Although in mine the underlap is 1/4" smaller than the overlap. I'm not sure what it is on hers. I imagine I would have the same problem however I could just be thinking about it wrong. Here's what is going on with mine.

Here is what it should look like in paper.

This is what it is doing.

Plackets

2009-04-11T21:25:00.000-07:00

I know I promised to do other tutorials, and I still will, I'm going to post about how to do a shirt placket. Because I have to have some thing to look at to remind me how it all goes together, you all have to look at it with me. So here goes.

This placket is the set up used in the sleeves of dress shirts and the neck opening of pull overs. I stole this almost entirely from David Coffin's book-Shirtmaking. I have tried other methods of sewing a placket and other shapes such as the two part placket and pointed ends vs square ends. Coffin's method is the easiest minus two details, the final top stitching and folding the point, but we'll get to that

This is right out of Coffin's book.

Here's my pattern. I went a little crazy with the notches.

The pink is the placket and the red is our imaginary sleeve or shirt front or whatever.

The first part is all ironing. I think that making the top square and then folding the triangle makes the top too bulky and is difficult to make a perfect triangle. In the future I will cut the triangle with 1/4 seam allowances and use a triangle shaped piece of tag board to iron around.

Here they finally get pinned together.

You can't make out the stitch line very well here but you can see it better in the next one. As a note I will draw this box in with pencil to make it easier to stitch around.

Make sure to clip all the way to corners.

You should iron placket opening at this point.

Top stitch the underlap.

I top stitch the overlap up to the point where it joins the shirt and then take it out of the machine, line it all up again and put it back in to top stitch the triangle but I forgot to put in that picture.

Sewing this rectangle on is the worst part I can't seem to get it to line up just right on the underside. Does anybody have a good trick for it? If I have to hand baste it I know I'm doing something wrong.

See. Its still crooked. It makes me crazy.

Ta Da!

Show Time!

2009-04-09T08:17:00.000-07:00

Well the time is now! Come see some awesome fashion. Come see my new project. Here's the info and if you click on the title it will take you directly to the mercury site and a place to buy tickets.

Sandra Buckland

2009-04-04T10:35:00.000-07:00

After a year and a half in the garment industry in NYC, I have to admit to being a little jaded about design. I don't read fashion magazines much anymore because I'm just generally a bit bored with the clothes...so it's really exciting to come across something that I absolutely love and have never seen the likes of before. I don't know anything about Sandra Buckland, but her work is amazing... although I'm not sure if I would wear most of it out of the house.
Oh hell, yes i would.

And for the extra super ballsy among us, we have....human hair!!!
Gorgeous, until you think about it.

Branching Out

2009-04-04T07:56:00.000-07:00

Things have slowed down a bit in the patternmaking world lately. At first I thought it was all post fashion week fatigue, but the lack of work has dragged on past the normal month or so. I think people are really assessing things, determining where to go next in this environment, and taking their time thinking about it. The result for me however, has been monstrously long "weekends" and 2 or 3 days of work a week. This week I didn't work at all. Now this could be fun -- for instance, my roommate Lillian and I are planning on spending the entire day working on our summer wardrobes (this involves lots of bleach, distressing, and black dye). But it also means I need some work on the side.
Which is a lead-up to say that Lillian and I have been working on a project that involves germ filtering tents for baby car seats. A fun technical problem, but not something either of us are going to be excited about putting on our resume. This led to a couple conversations with friends about what our worst or most ridiculous job related to our field has been. Lillian made patterns for a woman who was creating "designer scrubs." Another friend, an artist, made a backdrop for a Marlboro ad and felt like she was selling her soul the whole time. And my friend Julia, a videographer, worked for a year at a company who's main client was Popeye's Chicken. And she's vegan.
My most absurd career related job was a freelance gig I took a couple summers ago for a wealthy young man who wanted costumes for Burning Man. I agreed to sew him three v-neck t-shirts and two pairs of pants, all made of animal print spandex, much of with a metallic finish. He wanted them all VERY tight, to the point that when I was taking measurements he mentioned that I should take a little extra off the pants measurements because he doesn't wear underwear out at Burning Man.
I had successfully completed the t-shirts and started on the pants when my sewing machine stopped working. Completely stopped, full of loopy bobbin mess and weird thumping sounds, unable to proceed. Oddly (and fortunately), it worked fine on every other type of fabric. So I pawned the pants project off on a friend. She told me later that he had insisted on doing the fitting for the pants without his underwear on. Jesus. I haven't taken a freelance sewing job since.
I want to hear everyone else's stories of skill and talent used for odd and/or soul sucking jobs. Post yours!

Paging LT Cute!

2009-04-02T20:26:00.000-07:00

You have been waiting for it! It is a tie (yes a tie). For a lady (yes you). And... dun dun dun... it's here ... The Lady Tie! Tell me this isn't the cutest thing ever! For more info, check out UltraPDX and/or www.ladytie.com

Smith and Bybee

2009-03-29T13:49:00.000-07:00

A while back I had the opportunity to do a work trade with my friend Nate. Nataniel Shapiro does odd jobs for my company. He has a furniture design degree from RISD and does all kinds of beautiful sculpture and fabrication. For a while he was teaching me welding and metal working and I was teaching him how to make men's dress shirts. Through this collaboration Smith and Bybee was born. Smith and Bybee is name of our new menswear line. We will be showing our first collection at "The Forecast" a Mercury fashion event. The Mercury being our local weekly rag. The event will take place on April 26th at the Portland Center Stage/Gerding Theater/the Armory at 128 NW Eleventh Avenue, Portland, OR. I believe that it will be taking place in the smaller event space, lobby area as opposed to the actual stage itself. The press for the event is still to come and I'm sure it will involve more specifics like time, price, and all that good stuff. I'm not totally sure who all is going to be showing but it will involve some if not all of the usual portland suspects, Adam Arnold, Emily Katz, Seaplane, etc. They are also interested in featuring a small collection of "budding" designers, being people that haven't done many public events. Each "budding" designer would have one look and then those designers would be shown together as part of the show. If anybody is interested I can put you in touch with the mercury. I know that there will be a 25$ application fee but no participation fee.

Our collection is inspired by the textiles and details of classic American work wear. It will be six looks over all. I'm not sure how many looks other people are doing but we had rather short notice about this and settled on six as a do-able number. This will be my first real show and I'm so ridiculously excited about it. I hope everybody comes.

Wolf dressform? I think not.

2009-03-25T12:30:00.000-07:00

Okay. I purchased this dress form off of Craigslist by someone who claimed it was Wolf brand. The price that I purchased it at was very reasonable, compared to a new Wolf. I called and asked if she would hold it for me and she did. I was so fricking excited that I was getting this thing, that I wasn't thinking very clearly. Anyhow, I didn't see "Wolf" printed on it anywhere in the pictures. But I thought, why would she lie, I'm sure Wolf makes some that do not have their name on it. I got to her house and it was in very good condition, so I bought it. Anyway, now I have it and YES it is very nice. I am still ecstatic. But I had to get to the bottom of this "Wolf" thing. The other thing I noticed once I got home, was that she has very broad shoulders, and an exceptionally long distance between her bust level and her neck point. I work on all kinds of forms at school and they vary greatly, so this doesn't concern me too much. However, it does say a size 8, which it is not. Again, this doesn't concern me. It's more like a ready-to-wear 8, or a size 10 form. More than anything, I just want to know more about it.

So I called Wolf, and the woman was extremely patient and helpful. She looked

up at the history of the forms they made in 1995, and did not find a number that matched the one written on the bottom of the form. As you can see, she has some shaping in the bum area, and some definition in the front leg area as well. This led the woman at Wolf to believe that maybe it was a cocktail or strapless version. Either way, the measurements did not match theirs for an eight, it doesn't say Wolf anywhere (which the woman said some people will request if they're using it for display purposes), and the work order number doesn't match.

Regardless, I do love the form and am ecstatic to have one, especially at this price. However, I do regret not asking the woman I purchased it

from, where she got it. The measurements are so inconsistent and odd (an extremely wide shoulder width), that I almost think it was a custom form that the woman had made for herself. It is definitely very similar to her body type! I am wondering if anyone has had an experience with this type of form, or knows who made it? The name of the individual who made it is written on the bottom by hand, "Fior 7/28/95", along with the bust, hip, and about six other measurements, and an order number.

One other question, maybe a silly one. I've always used the ones at school that have legs, so you can pull pants and skirts on from the bottom. Several of my designs are pencil shaped at the bottom and won't fit over the bust. This was a funny initial conundrum that I encountered immediately: How the hell do I get this thing on here?! I tried sleeving the form off of the stand, but it just got higher and higher. The ceiling in my studio isn't even high enough for me to sleeve it off all the way. I could pull the skirt over the wheels, but we're talking about some expensive wool that I generally avoid putting on the floor. I find it hard to believe that you can't make a pencil skirt for this thing, so I look to you guys to divulge the industry secrets!

Half-Scale Dressforms

2009-03-21T15:00:00.000-07:00

Well, I am looking at finally adding a dress form to my studio, and ran across some half-scale ones. I've heard of these, and find the concept pretty fascinating. First of all, they're fricking cute! Second of all, if you have one of these hanging out in your studio, you're looking pretty cool in my book. And third of all, can it really be possible to drape on one of these, simply double the size of the pattern, and presto... accurately fitting garment? I know they are used for many reasons, primarily for education and demonstrations, but a site I looked at suggested that it could be used to make a real, working pattern. As high quality as the dress form may be, I would imagine you would have to be an extremely meticulous stitcher and patternmaker in order for this to work. Any miniscule mistake you made in the pattern would then become twice the size! I'm curious if anyone has worked on one of these, and if they have any feedback. Cuz...I kinda like the idea! Imagine the amount muslin you would save!

What do you want?

2009-03-20T08:20:00.000-07:00

In the midst of my fashion mayham I'm helping my friend Nate learn more about the construction of garments. All of his questions have got me thinking about the information that I have had trouble finding. If I could make all that info readily available it would make me happy but there is only so much time in a day. So I'm wondering what tutorials would be the most use to others.
I could do one on how to copy your favorite jeans,
How to copy and sew flat felled seams,
Shirt detailing back vents/facing/fancy cuffs,
Drafting and sewing button plackets on the center front or cuff,
Real flies (not Mock Flies) on pants,
Sewing and patterning seams that are an arc joined to a strait line,
At home seam taping for raincoat and dry bags,
Or anything else that you want that I know how to do. So leave a comment, vote, and I'll try to do two tutorials in May.

News Especially for Carly

2009-03-17T05:59:00.000-07:00

After a break from fashion, it appears that your darling Jil Sander is going back to work, and she's going to be designing for Uniqlo! I don't remember for sure, but I think we visited Uniqlo when you were in NYC....It's a Japanese brand of basics - T-shirts and jeans and cashmere sweaters - all pretty damn cheap and fairly high quality despite the cheapness. Sooo...although there's no Uniqlo in Portland, and I don't think they do mail order, you are a tad bit closer to being able to own some Jil Sander designed duds.

New Stuff!

2009-03-16T12:52:00.000-07:00

I'm sorry I haven't been posting lately. I'm gearing up for a fashion show at the end of april. Although I'm waiting to hash out a few more detail before I divulge all the info. I just wanted to draw your attention to a couple new links. The coolest website I have found in quite some time is the E-Workers site. Its all in japanese but it has detail shots of all kinds of old-school work wear. I highly recommend checking it out. Next up is Context clothing which not only is a good retailer for high end men's wear and denim but posts the actual size of the garments. And last but not least we have The Bra Maker Supply which is a good place to source all kinds of hard to source items.
Happy browsing!

Oh, Senior Collection again...

2009-02-22T11:05:00.000-08:00

The entire collection will be done in about three weeks, but this is all I have pictures of so far. These are not the best pictures, but show my progress none the less. The jeans still need belt loops and a hem, the shirt needs a good pressing and a nice rolled hem. I have also completed the mini skirt which is exactly like the jeans. I have a good start on about 3 other garments, and should have pictures of those soon.

NY Fashion Week is over!!

2009-02-21T07:05:00.000-08:00

And I have free time again!!
My boss, Tina, is actually incredibly organized, so the month long lead up to fashion week wasn't as hectic or busy as it is for most other people working in fashion, but it was still exhausting, and I am reveling completely in my free weekend, sitting here with my cup of coffee looking at my workspace, planning out my projects for the day. As a way to commit to completion, I'm going to list them here:
-Start in on that enormous pile of to-be-fixed clothes. They never take long and it's so satisfying -- you suddenly have an entire week's worth of new clothes!! but I still never do it. From scratch is so much more fun.
-Develop, mock up and test bicycle saddle bags. With a lovely industrial machine, and two leads on waxed cotton suppliers, I don't have an excuse anymore. Plus summer is just around the corner.
-Make a series of draped jersey shirts and dresses for the days at the end of the week when all I want to wear to work is pajamas.
-And, along the pajamas line, draft a pattern for harem pants. It should take about 10 minutes. And oh, the coziness!

Quilting with Gee's Bend

2009-02-21T07:04:00.001-08:00

I finally bought the book The Quilts of Gee's Bend on ebay the other day, after a year or two of covetting it. If you haven't seen the quilts made by the women of Gee's Bend, Alabama, you're in for a treat. They have an incredible free form grace and the color schemes are sometimes surprising and irregular. The stories behind the quilts make them all even more stunning.

Just before finding the book online, a friend invited me to join a little quilting group she's starting with friends in Brooklyn. I'm really excited to start my own Gee's Bend inspired quilt -- I don't want to copy the quilts, I think that out of context they would seem a little dishonest and lose a lot of their appeal. I've been thinking though about precision versus a kind of conscious imprecision, and the idea of making something spontaneously irregular seems like such a refreshing contrast to patternmaking. It's similar to when, after working on tailored pieces for awhile, you get to play around with some poufy irregularily pleated asymmetrical gown.

"Standard" work on cutting

2009-02-02T18:44:00.000-08:00

I recently found this book at Powells and found that it had all kinds of patterns in it that used ideas that I have been curious about. I have started thinking that most of the patterns that I draft are too flat. By this I mean that the shaping of seam lines is less varied than the shapes of the body part it is covering. I imagine that this is due to many iterations of pattern drafters truing all the subtleties out a garment. Whether or not this is true I have no idea but it makes sense in my head. At work I do many patterns on much smaller things than the average frock coat but I have learned to love the tiny 1/8" and 1/16" of an inch adjustments that take a pattern from fine to awesome. The most interesting thing I have discovered about these adjustments is that they often take the pattern away from the mathematically idealized version and involve asymmetric darts and extra "bend" allowance in areas that are hard to stuff properly. (I'm thinking more of back pack straps than frock coats.) This has led me to think that all of the areas in sewing where we make straight lines on curved parts of the body might be the wrong way to approach things. So while I was thinking about this I found a book called "Standard" Work On Cutting (Men's Garments) 1886. That's right this book was written in 1886. Now before you start thinking that you don't want to make a frock coat for the corpulent figure (pg 20) let me ask you a couple of questions I have been wondering.
Why is it that the shoulder seam for men's dress shirts doesn't sit at the apex of the shoulder (or there abouts) and is in fact cocked forward by a large amount, and what exactly should that amount be?
How come it is so hard for me to find pants that fit well in the rear? And why do we draw a strait line in the rear crotch curve when its one of the curviest parts? For more on this look at the fashion incubator site for insight on butts, camel toe, and jeans fitting.
How come the interior line of a relaxed hanging arm is so much smaller than the exterior line but our sleeves are patterned symmetric?
There are these and many more questions but I would like to show you this book.

Look at these crotch curves! It all makes sense!

Look at the angles of the shoulder seams?! Look at everything.

And finally because this book was written so long ago it's copyrights have expired and you can download it for free from Google books. Take that Powells! Wait, No! I didn't mean it. Come back Powells. I love you. I swear I'll never cheat again, I promise!

P.S Sorry for all the exclamation points. Sometimes I just get carried away.

New Links!

2009-01-29T18:34:00.000-08:00

I wanted to provide a brief introduction to the new links I've posted on our side bar.

The crowning jewel is "Vintage Sewing" Somebody is taking the time to scan vintage sewing books and post them. Please give these people money, books, your first born, what ever you think might help create an extensive data base of sewing information. The world of sewing can only profit from a population of well educated people. They have information on patterning, sewing, washing, glove making, millinery, and much more. They have many books from The Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences.

Next up we have infomat which is a hub for fashion links including trends and careers. It is slightly unsatisfying in the amount of hard information that it provides but a good link hub.

Massive Change is the brain child of Bruce Mau and in dedicated to all the intricacies of how design can better our world and environment. Their reading list is one of the best compilations of awesome nonfiction I have encountered. Feel free to educate yourself, get involve, or just peruse. These people have inspire hope in me. I think there is a chance that we don't have to destroy ourselves.

I will end with the NW Links For Raw Materials. This is sight for the Oregon/Washington/Idaho area who either have or want industrial raw materials. This includes barrels of wool, pounds of garment leather scraps, fifty gallon drums of beany babies, and all sorts of things you never knew you wanted.

Have fun surfing, I hope that there is useful info in there for everyone.

Jacket for Carly

2009-01-26T19:54:00.000-08:00

I saw this on the Sartorialist the other day and thought of you Carly. That volume in the back, the silhouette in general - I can so easily imagine you in this.

Menswear Inspiration

2009-01-26T19:28:00.000-08:00

Last season I posted some pictures from Junya Watanabe's menswear show. Again this season I love a lot of the pieces, (although I have to say, the addition of some yellows and metallics were a little off the deep end) and, after looking through some of the Sartorialist's menswear photos for style.com, I've realized just how influenced by menswear I am right now. It suits the world mood (with the exception of Obama-jubulence) to wear androgynous wool plaids and work boots and worn-in canvas instead of my closet full of vintage dresses.

My favorite from JW's collection.

Distressed and destroyed only really works if it's genuine. None of that pre-washed whiskered crap. Luckily I have quite an easy time staining, tearing and generally ruining things on my own.

I love the tab detail on the waistband of his jacket.

Alright, so this guy's a little too far into steampunk territory, but I really like all the pieces serparately, and I've been wanting a hat like that one for ages...

A little Winter sun

2009-01-21T21:28:00.000-08:00

This last week end I got to go to Astoria OR, (this is where the movie Goonies was filmed for those of you that don't know.) It was still so cold that there was frost in the all the shadows but so sunny that people were out in shorts.

The Astoria Bridge

The 4.21 mile long Astoria Bridge opened in 1966. It is the longest continuous truss span bridge in the world. It had a $1.50 toll until 1994, when the bridge was paid for and the toll was removed. The bridge has more than 200 feet of clearance on the Oregon side so the huge ships can pass beneath it in the shipping channel. It is 150 feet more to the top of the span.

Click here for more info on Astoria

Senior Collection

2009-01-18T12:39:00.000-08:00

I meant to post these a long time ago, but I have been very busy, just like most of you! I told you all about the beginning of this process, when I was working on designing these pieces, and laying them out with their respective fashion figures. Well, lets skip a few months ahead. Now these designs have actually materialized a bit. (no pun intended) This process is broken up into three classes, the first being concept and design development, the second being patternmaking and prototypes, and the third being the final product which will be walking down the AI runway in June. Overall, I was most anticipating the patternmaking and fitting to be the most stressful and time consuming. And having accomplished that portion last quarter, I am now feeling at ease and looking forward to sitting down and sewing the final garments. I considered posting the photos of my prototypes, but it takes an ambitious imagination to ignore the "muslins" I chose to sew them out of. Seeing as I will begin sewing the finals next week, I will try to post them as I go. I've calculated that sewing one design a week will get me done it time.

Thanks for looking!

Pattern Weights IV

2009-01-18T11:51:00.000-08:00

I apologize for the delay in my response to this subject. Nonetheless, here they are. There are six of the round ones, two in each size. They are essentially big heavy washers. On the bottom, they have plastic covers with three slits extending to the edge, where you can insert a flat thumbtack. I found these in my Mom's old sewing kit, and begged her for them. This was before I even understood exactly how valuable they would be to me. I love them.

I have seen the yellow ones that were posted in a previous entry, and they are designed to function similarly as mine. However, I don't believe that the spikes can be removed. Also, they aren't quite as simplified. The plastic is a hard case with a weight inside, which is kind of loose and rattly. Also, they have little ridges built into the top so that they can accommodate each other's spikes when stacked. All of this seemed a little excessive to me. However, all and all, they do seem like a good option compared to the other kinds of weights that are readily available.

I also recently purchased this iron from goodwill. It is seven pounds, but pretty small. It is great to have around to really anchor something down. I plan to get more as I see them. They are perfect as pattern weights. They are also readily available and inexpensive.

Instructional design

2009-01-14T19:02:00.000-08:00

I have discovered a new affection for instructional design. By this I mean designs that instruct like your ikea manual as opposed to designing instruction like the Montessori school. I have a couple links for others that might be interested but I would mostly like any information that people might have about particularly cool diagrams or books. I would like to learn more about how to make useful diagrams but also just want to collect beautiful ones as well. I have an exceptional weakness for the exploded diagrams.

Wurlinton paper workshop

Open Here

Tufte

Holiday festivities

2009-01-06T18:40:00.000-08:00

Over the Christmas season we got the most snow in Portland that we have had since the early sixties. We rarely get more than a light dusting any given year so we are completely incapable of dealing with it. The city owns very few snow plows and we are much too environmental to salt the streets. People here not only don't know how to drive in the snow they don't even know how to put chains on their cars. Don't miss understand me. I am not complaining. I love how the city shuts down. The streets are empty and you don't have to go to work or school. The city transformes and gets that weird quiet that snow brings. Here are some pictures.

This is the intersection of 12th and Burside (usually a major interesection) at 2 in the afternoon.

This is my family on christmas.

I also went to a uni-suit (any sort of one piece outfit that isn't a dress) themed new years party that was quite fun. It was a house full of people, shoulder to shoulder, dancing all night long. I didn't get as many pictures as I should have. I was too busy dancing. Here is Emily and I. I helped her make that orange jumpsuit. She looked great in it.

This one was pretty good. The guy in the background is dressed like batman.

Pattern weights III

2009-01-06T18:11:00.000-08:00

Since I nobody sent me pictures I can't post the wide range of pattern weights that I had hoped however I can post my collection as well as what we use at work.

These are what I use at home.
Starting from left to right on top;
1. a weight I bought off a furniture renovation shop that was going out of business, the man who sold it to me said that people use to cary these in their saddle bags and then when they got somewhere they would take it out and tie their horse to it. I have no idea if that is true or not.
2. This is a gear cluster from a motorcycle that my aunt gave me when we were cleaning out her goat shed.
3. Standard scale weight
Left to right on bottom now;
4. Some part of the brake system for a large vehicle that my mechanic gave me.
5. The same part for a smaller vehicle with a large ball bering in it for extra weight.
6. Again the same part without the ball bering
7. A triangular piece of lead with a leather cover that has been carefully hand stitched around the edge. This was made as a paper weight by Bob Beckle at the place that Hannah and I use to work.
8. This is just a large chunk of steel I stole from our scrap pile at work. I wire brushed it to get all the rust off, then lightly oiled it with WD-40. Then made sure that it was perfectly clean before I put it on my fabric.

On a side note, for cool weights I had a lot of luck typing "antique weight" into ebay.

These are the ones we use at work. Note the pen for a sense of scale. These where made by boss. They are steel flat bar with welded handle made in-house. They were powder coated white.

I was wondering if anybody has used either of these kinds of weights?

Olfa

Dritz

Another Knowledge Gap

2009-01-02T16:24:00.000-08:00

I discovered a few days ago, much to my horror, that I have been balancing skirts and dresses wrong. To my credit, my roommate, who apprenticed at the same patternmaking studio that I did, claims that she also did not learn this valuable piece of information until after she left the apprenticeship. So I feel a little better....
I have always been under the impression that garments - all garments -- should be balanced in such a way that they are bigger in the front than the back by 1/4 to 3/8" per side. It turns out that while that is the case with the bodice, once you get to the hips it should be reversed. I admit, this makes a whole lot of sense and if I had thought about it, I would've realized right away that the bodice is bigger in front to accommodate the bust and the skirt is bigger in the back to accommodate the hips and the curvier the fit model, the bigger the difference between the front and back to insure a straight side seam. The general consensus seems to be that the two are blended to zero somewhere between waist and high hip, depending on the shape of your fit model.
I think I was confused partly because I know that pants generally have side seams set back about 1/2" because that makes the butt look smaller -- and if you look at patterns for pants designed for folks from cultures that appreciate bigger butts, like Latinas, you'll find that the side seams aren't moved back at all. This is what I've been told anyway.
Now for those of you who use blocks instead of draping, are your blocks already balanced in this way so that you don't have to think about it? That would take so much fractional math out of my life....

Pattern Weights II

2009-01-02T16:10:00.000-08:00

Here's a photo of what I called the "nice industrial" pattern weights. They're about 4 lbs., 10 inches long, and cost between $10 and $15 apiece. I got mine for pennies when my roommate went to a huge warehouse liquidation sale. We also aquired two gravity feed irons, tons of pattern hooks and an industrial Juki machine that I can't wait to try out.

My boss has some pattern weights like these below as well. I hate them. It seems like weights should be very stable -- you want no movement at all, right? So why on earth would anyone design a weight that, when filled, bulges out into an almost spherical shape, and rolls with the tiniest nudge?

Also, when I took my very first classes from Sharon Blair in Portland Oregon, she used massive washers from the hardware store (I'm not posting a picture of this. You all know what washers look like). I like them a lot, and only have two complaints. First, it seems no one needs massive washers in NYC. I can't find them anywhere. Also, they don't have handles like the industrial ones, and I like the handles even if they're not entirely necessary.

Pattern Weights

2008-12-30T13:46:00.000-08:00

Hello everyone. I'm sorry about the holiday hiatus. I don't know about the rest of you but I was holed up working on people's christmas presents until the ninth hour. This was exacerbated by the un-precedented (at least in my life time) snow that we got here in Portland. Christmas shopping was hard without snow plows. Anyways I would like to do a post about pattern weights. People seem to have very strong feelings about where and how they use their weights. I have also never been able to buy pattern weights I liked and have therefore made my own. I imagine that its the same for many of you. So, I would like people to send me pictures of your weights and comments about how you use them. Please send them to carlymick@gmail.com.
Cheers and a happy new year!

Sewing machine shopping

2008-12-09T22:02:00.001-08:00

It's been awhile since I've posted anything! I have a very long mental list of posts that I would like to make, I'm hoping I get to them soon....
For now, I have a question for the sewers out there: Does anyone have any good advice as to what brand and make of sewing machine is high quality but not too pricey? A friend of mine is on a hunt for a good basic home machine, and I'm sad to say I didn't have a lot of advice for her. Any feedback would be lovely. Thanks!

Silk

2008-11-27T14:08:00.000-08:00

This post was inspired by a conversation with Hannah earlier today. Silk is one of my all time favorite fabrics. The variety and suppleness of silk makes it appropriate for just about everything. I have seen many wonderful designs look cheap because people chose synthetics to mimic silk. Silk is a wonderful fabric to work with and has a variety of different weights and hands for all different projects. I would like to dissuade you from some silk myths and note the rarely discussed issues I've had with silk.

Myth: Silk is too fragile.

Silk is actually an incredibly strong fiber. It has been used in armor for thousands of years and is said to be stronger than steel although I'm not entirely sure what kind of strength they are talking about. Most silk is also made from a very long single filament. This means that the fiber can distribute the force over the width of the fabric and the individual fibers are not going to sluff off. The point is that silk isn't going to disintegrate while you are wearing or sewing it, unlike acetate which will melt in a wide variety of solvents. However, if you have a very fine knit or loose weave it will snag and shift, although this is true of every other fiber as well.

Myth: You can't wash silk

I think that this is the real reason that many people don't like wearing silk. They believe that you will always have to take that garment to the dry cleaner's. Well, the truth is that you can wash silk. (Believe me, I'm not a dry cleaner kind of a girl.) There are a few things that you should know about washing silk.

1. Some manufacturers don't set their dyes for washing. This is something I have heard about, but never experienced myself. What I have noticed is that the dye will bleed somewhat in the first two rinsings. This is true of most other fabrics as well. This is the best reason to treat your silks gently. You are trying to preserve the process that's been done to the silk more than the silk fibers themselves. It is always wise to wash a sample first and make sure it behaves like you want it too.

2. If you pre wash your silks you will never have any issues with water spots.

3. You should wash your silks often and gently instead of waiting until they're really dirty.

4. Wash with luke warm water and dish washing detergent. In general detergents are always gentler that soaps. Laundry
detergents are sometime made more powerful than you need for silks. Think grass stains on denim.

5. Your silks are likely to change a little when you wash them the first time. The finish that is put on fabrics is meant to make you want to buy it when its on the bolt. This finish might not be as suitable for wearing as it is for selling. Think formaldehyde and other chemicals on your skin. However the finish might be what attracted you to that silk in the first place and removing it might distroy what you liked about the fabric. Test, Test, Test. The most common ways that silks are likely to change is in the sheen and the hand. Some silks will be come less shiny or more prone to wrinkles. Most will become softer. Some will fade slightly.

6. Occasionally when I have rinsed silks there have been some strange smells. I don't know if it comes from the silk or the finish but poor susanna's shirt smelled particularly like fish. I have since discovered that most off odors can be eliminated by adding some vinegar to the rinse. This has the added benefit of helping to set the dye. You will probably have to rinse the vinegar out too but its a lot easier than weird odors.

7. Wash the yardage gently while still folded. It's easy to want to open it up and work it like cotton but silk is more likely to keep the shape it was when wet. DONT RING IT. Place the washed, still folded yardage in a towel. Roll the towel up and press the water out. Then unfold it and steam iron dry.

8. The one thing I don't recommend washing is already made garments with inner structures like jackets or suits. I can bet you that whoever made it did not pre-shrink all that foundation stuff. That's a recipe for a very lumpy jacket.

Myth: You have to use silk thread to sew silk.

You can use any type of thread with your silk. Silk thread is especially good for basting because it is a long satiny filament that can slide through the weave of the fabric with minimal abrasion. This means that when you remove your basting you don't have a bunch of little holes in your project. I like using silk thread for silk because it satisfies my neurotic desire to to put like things together. That and it feels fancy. I believe that the best kind of thread is actually cotton. Cotton is a lot weaker than silk. This means that if your dress gets caught it will tear on the seam lines instead of the silk.

Myth: Silk is too expensive.

While its true that some silks are worth a kings ransom, you can also buy many silks at comparable prices. China silk for example makes a long wearing, washable, totally luxurious lining, or slip, and can be had for 9.99/yrd at my local fabric store.

Notes on working with difficult fabrics:
1. It is true that gauzy and slippery silks are hard to cut. All gauzy and slippery fabrics are hard to cut. Your best defense is tissue or butcher paper laid on top of the silk as you trace and cut the pattern pieces. If you find you need it you can even put paper on either side of your fabric. If you chose this option your lay up would be table, paper, silk, paper, pattern piece. With one or two sheets of paper you are going to dull your scissors a little. Its best to have a pair of scissors sharp enough to cut silk but not your favorite ones. PLEASE REMEMBER not all silks are gauzy slippery fabric. There are silks in a rainbow of weights and textures. Pick one. Try it out. You might never go back.

2. Always use 65 needle or even smaller for fine fabric. It should be the finest needle appropriate for your thread. If you still have trouble with your machine sucking it down, place a piece of tape over the needle hole on the throat plate. Regular tape works fine, like the stuff you wrap presents with. You might have to trim it to the right size so it doesn't interfere with the feed dogs.

If there is anything I forgot, feel free to speak up.
Happy Holiday Silking!

Double needle pintuck.

2008-11-13T16:33:00.000-08:00

So I tried it and had to post it right away, because it was so much fun! I just threw a double needle in my machine, threaded her all up, and sewed along my mock style line. I decided to start with denim because it was less intimidating than chiffon, but will be trying that next. Once your line is sewn, simply pull the bobbin thread taut, bringing the two stitch lines together and forcing the pin tuck upwards. It took a little manipulation, and must say it feels a little delicate. However, this is my first try and I'm sure it takes a little customizing with the stitch length and such. Very exciting though. I definitely achieved the look I was going for! Click on the pictures to see ultra close-ups.

To ravel or not to unravel.

2008-11-13T15:36:00.000-08:00

Okay, another sewing conundrum accompanied by a vocabulary one...

I am making a pair of jeans, also for my Senior Collection of course. Here's the catch. They have a seam that travels from the hem all the way up the balance line of each leg. Then in the vicinity of the hip level line, these two seams make a 90 degree turn towards one another, meeting at center front. The very last thing I want to do is compromise my design. However, I want them to be finished very professionally and be as durable and easy-wearing as any other pair of jeans. The issue I'm anticipating is difficulty finishing these seams, seeing as I will bust them flat and then clip them.

Options I have considered are:

-I could overlock the seam and then clip.
-A friend suggested experimenting with bias tape, and finishing the clipped edge with that (something very lightweight).
-I could overlock everything BUT the curved area, as it will be on the bias, and shouldn't ravel unravel ravel. On a side note: are ravel and unravel interchangable? It sure seems that way to me. I tend to fill in the blank with UNravel, but others differ I have noticed.
-Fray check is not an option.
-Give up. (just kidding geez!).

If I absolutely must compromise my design (which I shouldn't have to), I do have a fairly decent backup plan which is to create this style line with a pintuck instead. I am planning to do samples of each, just incase one proves to be blatantly better.

Would love to hear any thoughts!

The Wilding's first project

2008-11-12T17:02:00.000-08:00

My friend Matthew Radune has been working on a series of beautiful felt lamps recently, and has just completed the first batch.
It's been a lot of fun to watch the process of the conception of the production of these lamps for distribution. A huge amount of thought was put it into it, and I believe the first one or two were dried in Matt's oven. He's gotten progressively more sophisticated in technique, and I'm very impressed with the finished product. Here's a photo:

The idea was originally conceived in collaboration with Susanna Homann, whose picture you can see below in the Flock and Fiber Festival post. She's a lovely lady who knows a whole lot about wool felt.
For anyone who is interested in purchasing one of these lamps (Seriously good Christmas gift. I feel warmer just looking at the golden glow) they can be bought in NYC at Houndstooth Fine Vintage for Men, and, if I'm not mistaken, will soon be available on Matthew's website www.thewilding.com.
I'm not going to explain the process he used to make them, but if anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them.

Light box as pattern table

2008-11-12T16:49:00.000-08:00

I've been spending some time at a friend's studio lately and I have to report on a brilliant but simple setup he's created for himself. He mentioned that he has started to think of pattern making as something akin to engineering, and in doing so, was inspired to set up his workspace in a similar way.
Now, one of my least favorite things about pattern making is tracing patterns in bad light. The thing is, almost all light is bad when you're using a clear plastic french curve, because the light, no matter where it's coming from, bounces off the side of the curve and creates this tiny little shadow, which is just big enough to make it impossible to see exactly where the line you're drawing is at.
What my friend has done to remedy this is essentially create a light box. He bought a large table with a frosted glass top, put a long rope of those tube white christmas lights under it, and viole, lightbox. It looks really classy, not DIY at all, and not only is the french curve tracing problem fixed, but so is the problem of creating flipped patterns for things like facings and linings. You can place a pattern face down, put a clean piece of paper on top, still see all the details, and create a mirror pattern in one trace.
I'm writing about this as if it's a new idea, but has anyone seen this used for patterns? I asked some of my industry friends here, and they said that they're generally only used for technical flats and sketches.

Oh Pintuck.

2008-11-10T19:12:00.000-08:00

For my senior collection, I have designed a dress that I would like to make of silk chiffon. However, I would also like for it to include panels of pintucks in several areas. In looking for pointers on how to do this, I came across this little entry. Although I will probably end up hand sewing my tedious tucks, I may have to try this technique on a more stable fabric just for fun. Enjoy, and by the way, clicking on the title will link you up to the original source for this.

Pintucks are tiny folds sewn into the fabric to add texture and decoration. There are usually several placed together in vertical rows, like on the bodice of a top or dress.

If the pintucks run from one seam to another, there is no need to tie them off. But if the pintucks end in the middle of the fabric, it is necessary [normally] to pull the threads to the wrong side of the fabric, and hand tie them to secure.

This technique is for pintucks that end in the middle of the fabric. You will be sewing along a fold in the fabric, 1/8 inch [or a little more] from the fold, using a regular machine needle.

Get ready to 'think outside the box' when it comes to threading your machine. Each pintuck is sewn with a single thread from your bobbin. Remove the top spool of thread.

With the bobbin in your machine, pull thread from your bobbin. Pull enough out that it is about a foot longer than the length of your pintuck. Put this thread through the needle, threading it the opposite direction [a needle threader really helps do this]. Keeping using this thread to completely thread the machine...the machine will be threaded as usual, you're just starting at the needle and working backwards. Just lay the extra thread on top of your machine. The thread should go directly from the bobbin to your needle, no slack. You're ready to sew the first pintuck.

You start the pintuck where you want the finished end to be [in the middle of your folded bodice, not at the raw edge]. Sew along the edge of the fold, until the pintuck ends at the edge of the fabric. Cut thread and remove bodice from machine. Remove any leftover thread from the top of the machine. Voila, the pintuck is finished, and no thread tails to tie off.

To do the next pintuck, pull thread from bobbin again, and rethread machine as before.

Chuckie meets Anne Geddes

2008-11-09T21:02:00.000-08:00

I know this isn't entirely on topic, but it does fit under the general umbrella of "sewn manufacturing." I've just read an article about a new type of stuffed animal being made in tokyo. Apparently you can get you child's face put on any animal body:

You send a profile photo of your child in, and choose from hundreds of plush animal bodies, and they send back.....umm.
Lillian just chastised me for not including the name of the company that makes these dolls. She's thinking about Christmas presents. The company is called Sha@Lark, and the names of the dolls are "Purimen Gurumi." Happy shopping!

Women's Institute of Domestic arts and sciences

2008-11-05T18:20:00.000-08:00

When I lived in Tucson I worked for a wonderful woman who owned Desert Vintage, the best vintage store in Tucson. On top of helping me with my sewing she once gave me a book called Drafting and Pattern Design. I coveted this book for many reasons but didn't take it seriously as a sewing reference. Because of the beauty of this book I went on to collect a few other volumes published by Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences. I recommend these books for their information and inspiration.

The women's institute was founded by Mary Brooks Picken in Scranton PA (the home town of our VP elect). She authored 96 books on sewing and fashion, was the first woman trustee of FIT and a founder of Fashion Group who's 60 years worth of fashion archives can be found at the NY public library. Hint, hint for you people in NY. She was also the first women author of an english language dictionary. And you thought you were busy.

When I got this book I was still so new to pattern drafting that I imagined that it was old and there for out dated. It was not until recently while reading Kathleen's book that I remembered this wealth of information that I ought to revisit.

This book was published in 1924.

This is the draft for a basic block. Notice the unusual angle of the CF line. I have my theories about why you would do it this way but I would love to hear yours.

This is the basic fitted block if that makes it any easier.

Check out this tailored sleeve. The shaping involved is beautiful.

This is the only tool used in this book. It is called a Picken's Square for obvious reasons. Both the book and this tool assume that you might not have any experience with multiplying or dividing.

And here's a little eye candy to leave you with.

post-halloween

2008-11-02T15:19:00.001-08:00

One of the more exciting finds in the aftermath of our Murder on President Street Halloween blowout party came at about 7:30 am on Saturday, on the floor of my room, when I was finally heading to bed:

Apparently a man dressed in a paper suit evaporated before he could make it home. Or he went home naked. I was pretty impressed with the level of skill and attention to detail exhibited - notice the digital watch, and also, the buttons are functional -there was also a belt with a nice western style buckle, but that was accidentally thrown away yesterday during the scrub-down.

And this is Kate, she made the alligator headdress herself, and no, she is not a patternmaker, or even in fashion. But she did a damn good job.

FREE "Scary Hannah Mask"!

2008-10-23T14:40:00.000-07:00

Happy Halloween everyone! Here is another something frightening for you! (Sorry Hannah, I couldn't resist!) This is my terribly inaccurate drawing of Hannah being her goofy self.

So in order to make proper use of such a rare and valuable resource, I have provided a Scary Hannah Mask. This goes out to all those Hannah admirers and costume collectors alike, who are looking to complete their collections!

Enjoy!

Halloweens passed.

2008-10-23T11:22:00.000-07:00

My favorite holiday is finally here! In honor of the wonderful Halloweens of yesteryear, I share with you some of my favorite memories.

Indeed an item of the past, our 2006 pumpkin rendition of the Britney and K-fed phenomenon:

Another favorite... when Rob and I dressed as bears... It was a brilliant idea, but neither of us could see through the poorly planned eyeholes in our gutted teddy bear heads.

I have yet to see what we concoct this year, but this dress has seen many a Halloween, and I may be forced to carry on that tradition.

Happy Halloween y'all!

I love this sweater

2008-10-17T07:18:00.000-07:00

For the most part I don't believe in pushing my politics. I think that what people believe in and who they vote for are entirely their business. Don't get me wrong I love talking politics I just want both people to be happy to be having a conversation. That said I love this sweater. It makes me want to fish out my massively under used yarn collection and start a fall project. If you want to check out the blog of the girl who made it click on the title. As a warning it is light on the sweaters, heavy on the politics, and drowning in kittens.

Anatomy and Kinesiology

2008-10-09T04:24:00.001-07:00

I was just taking a peak at Adam Arnold's studio, described and photographed in the Portland Mercury blog MOD, and was struck by this photo. He has X-rays of a torso on his chalkboard! Now he could just be being cute and design-y, since X-rays are totally the kind of thing that people put up just because they're interesting, but my impression is that it's for the sake of anatomy, because being able to see exactly how the human body is constructed, as well as how it moves, is one of the important aspects to patternmaking that I think is often overlooked. Jessie? As his new intern, is that the case? Also, I'm so envious and excited for you. It looks like he has such an efficient process that he works with, and his new clothes are gorgeous.

Hannah's story.

2008-10-07T12:00:00.000-07:00

If you're not gonna say it, I am. Hannah's mini life-as-a-patternmaker autobiography, How I got my start, is featured on Fashion-Incubator. Way to rock it Hannah, we are all so proud of you!

Thoughts on Lanvin and "The Economy of Cut"

2008-10-07T04:13:00.000-07:00

At a time when, as Cathy Horyn writes in On the Runway, there is a "gloom supplied at once by the economic crisis and the expensive orgy of the [fashion] shows," it's nice to know that some designers have the economy in mind.
One of the things that surprised me most when I first arrived in NYC and started working with Nicolas was the complete lack of consideration for how much fabric a pattern would require. There were numerous circumstances where a some extravagant dress needed five yards of fabric when it could have been made with two, had a simple seamline been added in a strategic and unobtusive place. I'm sure this was because we worked on pieces for the collections, and had they been production patterns we would have worked differently. All the same, it was exciting to read a review of Lanvin by Sarah Mower on style.com and hear that his runway pieces were patterned with a mind towards efficiency and a reduction of waste. Here's an excerpt:

"Can voluptuous fashion stay relevant in an age of austerity? Can gorgeous decoration coexist with the need for something plain and simple? Ask Alber Elbaz, a man whose recipe for reductionism and all-out gorgeousness squared the circle with a unique flourish. "Whatever's happening now," he said, "it's the end of fake. What's not real will go. What we have to do now is make life easier for women."

To him, that meant going back to the studio with scissors and fabric and working out, first, a supreme economy of cut and design. Airy shapes in poufy gazar, duchesse satin, georgette, and cloque were crafted from single shots of color in one-shouldered tops, balloon-sleeved blouses, and shifts in which the only feature is an internal drape that adds a miraculously chic fillip to the hip line."

Of course we are still talking about pieces that cost thousands of dollars. But if other fashion houses follow suit and direct part of their creative energy at diminishing the wasteful and "expensive orgy" aspect of the process, I for one will be much happier working in the world of high fashion.

Elbaz's pieces, by the way, are stunning. Here are some of my favorites:

The color combination of this one is so unexpected but pretty -- but look at the back of the other one! The front was very plain. I love designs with more going on in back, it adds an air of mystery.

This one almost looks like it's just pulled up on her thigh from static cling. I love clothes that walk that line between "is that an accident, or is it a stylistic choice...?"

Dang, Dolman.

2008-10-06T19:24:00.000-07:00

I don't think I've mentioned yet that I will be starting my internship with Adam Arnold next Monday. Yay! I'm very excited!

Meanwhile, he's invited me to his fall open house. The invitation strongly suggests wearing Adam Arnold. Unfortunately I haven't yet had the honor of owning anything Adam. I thought in order to get in the spirit of being a designer, that I would try to crank something out for myself.

So, I came up with a lined wool dress that is very coat-like. I sketched over a dozen designs an finally decided on one. I began by sketching them as flats, and created a sheet of progressives. I actually began drafting the pattern and began to second guess myself.

I love dolman sleeves, but because I have an unusually large bust circumference, they tend to look dumpy on me. It is visually confusing, because unless my waistline is defined, I look pregnant or overweight. And most dolman sleeves are baggy in general. As I was drafting the sleeve I began to wonder about how this would look, and lost some faith in my design.

In a completely natural search for reassurance, I was drawn to do what I've been taught, and drew my garment on this fashion figure! And I feel a million times better now! I drew this in less than ten minutes, and am so glad I did it.

The bodice should be very fitted aside from the dolman (it has an overarm seam), and has some combination of a built-up neckline and a mandarin collar. The bodice ends exactly where it needs to in order to accentuate the waist and has a true waistline seam where a slight amount of fullness is added, and increases to a somewhat fuller a-lined silhouette which is pulled in by a band at the hem. I added the band in order to balance out everything that is happening at the top, and feel it's a little over-accentuated in the drawing. I'm hoping that once it is made out of the medium-weight wool, the sleeve will droop a little and not be too stiff, and that the "coat feeling" doesn't take over too much. I would love to combine it with a satiny silky shirt with a "secretary" feel, black tights and boots.

The Flock and Fiber Festival

2008-10-02T23:02:00.000-07:00

Susanna and I went to Canby OR to go to the Oregon Flock and Fiber festival. It's a large collection of all thing sheep. There were livestock pens, craft contests, spinning circles, and a parking lot full of raw fleece. The clientele ranged from good old farm folk, "crafty" middle aged women, and some of the waldorf crowd. I was especially excited about the craft exhibit but I found it a little disappointing. Most things were just what you would expect, a shawl, a sweater, a hat, but there were a couple of things that totally blew me away. One woman named Debbie New had made two knit teacups.

These are knit in the shape of a football and then inverted onto themselves to lend support. They are totally soft, there are no wires, or glue, or anything.

Even more awesome was a knit kaleidoscope that she made. Its made as a series of Styrofoam cones wrapped in knit "hats" the whole thing is operated by a hand crank.

There was someone who made the tackiest and most elaborate felted scenes. They are a perfect example of the amazing capacity of people being used for things I find totally inexplicable. Although I might pay a small fortune for this unicorn. Bear in mind that both of these are 100% wool. And yes, that's a bear catching salmon.

We also found a wonderful booth that had felted goods from Kyrgyzstan. They had some beautiful stuff. Susanna who has spent time in Mongolia studying felt told me all about how the stuff was made. Its amazing. I can't explain the amount of wool that goes into a rug or the amazing way it feels in my hand.

Taylor and Travis's wedding

2008-10-02T21:41:00.000-07:00

Well a lot has happened since the last time I posted. First and foremost I moved into a new house. It is beautiful old portland style house with three room mates that are all pretty awesome. I am even going to have room to move my studio into the basement. I have in the past shied away from having my studio in my house because it seemed nice to get out and a little more professional to have one's studio in a different building. However the fact remains that where I had my studio was not very professional to begin with, I rarely had people over to impress, and there have been so many times that I have not worked on projects because I didn't want to take the time to get on my bike and go down there. I'm also feeling pretty cheap these days so that doesn't hurt either. Anyway this is a round about way of apologizing for not posting in such a long time.
There are two major events that have happened in the last two sewing weeks. (I say it like that so I don't have to go off on the vice presidential debates that I just watched.) The first being the wedding of Travis and Taylor and the culmination of my well documented sewing project Taylor's dress 1 Taylor's dress 2 Taylor's dress 3
The second I will get to in my next post.
Our friend Taylor worked at beckel canvas with Hannah and I and is a remarkably vivacious person. She and her husband once had a small fashion line of their own called T-Rex. For the most part Travis sewed the clothes and Taylor decorated them with a technique of cutting away a top layer of fabric to expose the under layer in spots, coupled with a lot of embroidery. On the whole they were pretty cool clothing.
To make a long story short T-Rex became the theme of their wedding. It was officiated by a friend in a dinosaur costume, they had a dinosaur themed cake, and lots more. For all of its non-tradition it was the sweetest, most honest and heartfelt weddings I have ever attended. But pictures speak a thousand words so here are some photos.

Taylor with her brides maids.

Taylor walking to the alter with her father.

Check out the beautiful trellis their friend made.

This is a good chunk of the wedding party on our bike ride to the reception. You can spot yours truly out on the end of the outcropping sporting a T-Rex made dress.

T-rex cake.

This is the groom standing in front of a 15 foot tall gold vinyl T-rex with christmas lights strung behind it.

Leather belts

2008-09-27T12:48:00.000-07:00

Alright, I admit I'm spending my rainy Saturday internet surfing. I just found these leather belts made by Jasmin Shokrian, and they're amazing, despite the fact the the pictures are a little hard to make out. Might have to copy them if I can get my hands on some lovely leather.

Lately I've been attracted to plain things that seem really well-made and sturdy, and these belts embody that.

Gianfranco Ferre

2008-09-27T12:21:00.000-07:00

I haven't ever paid a lot of attention to Gianfranco Ferre, but I stumbled onto his Spring/Summer 09 collection the other day, and am in love -- it's exactly what I'm in the mood for: Womanly and flattering but a little tough, futuristic/architectural with really new interesting shapes, and not a print in sight. Here are a few of my favorites:

This one above is kind of the perfect party dress.

I love the way that the pockets stand away from the body on the skirt. Also I think the fact that the belt is dark only in the middle section of the bodice is really flattering and makes the waist look tiny.

I love how in these last 2 pieces there are so many hard lines and edges as well flowing lines that maintain a balance between a feeling of strength and grace.

Shirt problems

2008-09-27T09:24:00.000-07:00

Awhile ago, when we were discussing balancing patterns, Dana had mentioned something about the possibility of balancing shoulder seams as a way to keep from having to pull shirts down in front while wearing them. At the time I didn't know what she was talking about, but just this week I started having that exact problem. I've started wearing button-up shirts that fit a little looser, and I noticed that they tend to ride back and I'm constantly pulling then forward so that the collar sits against my neck. The shirts fit me in every other way, and I'm wondering if this is a common problem and if so, how it might be solved -- it seems to me that the shirts don't follow the curve of the back of the neck well and that's why they slide back, but I want to hear other people's input.

More jean talk.

2008-09-25T15:10:00.000-07:00

Well, I finally made myself a pair of jeans. Aside from a few very minor errors, I am very happy with how they came out! I have been wearing them everyday since I finished them. I'd been imagining this large back yoke, which pushed the pockets down onto the leg. It's a design I'm incorporating into my senior collection, and thought I would try it out on myself first to see how it makes me feel. I have yet to apply belt loops, but plan to do so soon.

Eating my (snarky) words

2008-09-21T21:31:00.001-07:00

As a few of you know, I've never been much a fan of Leanimal, Portlander Leanne Marshall's line. I have to retract that sentiment though, having just taken a look at her capsule collection shown in NYC as one of the Project Runway finalists. I like this look below more than most things I saw on the runways this season. Although, as a blogger mentioned on ultrapdx.com, her work has become "decidedly un-portland." Maybe that's the change that took it from kitchy-not-quite-interesting to classy-completely-interesting. From now on I'll be paying more attention.

Addendum:
A few days ago I flew to Portland OR for a visit, and on the plane ended up watching 5 or 6 episodes of the current Project Runway. Not only are Leanne's final pieces interesting and beautifully made, but she is by far the most likeable person to have ever appeared on a reality TV show. I won't be watching the finale, but I hope she wins, because I'd love to see how she furthers her line with the prize money.

portland fashion week

2008-09-21T21:21:00.000-07:00

So my dears, it looks like I accidentally scheduled my trip to portland right over portland fashion week -- I don't know that I want to go to the official shows, but on Saturday the 10th there's a multi designer show at Someday Lounge, featuring the indie designers I always think are more interesting...how about it, can I count on going with you all?

It's Fall!

2008-09-20T06:41:00.000-07:00

I just got back from China, and discovered that hot sweaty NY summer had turned into beautiful breezy fall. Hurray! To celebrate I am posting all the things I've been dying to wear/find lately (but it's been too hot for).

I found a pair of Wranglers similar to these, but in much better condition on ebay a couple weeks ago, I can't wait to wear them with thick tights and short poufy skirts, or straight jeans tucked into the tops...

I love the idea of rainboots but I'm pretty tired of imitation wellies everywhere I look. I really like how woodsy these are - I think I'd wear them the same as the wrangler boots.

I just found a black cotton jacket similar to this one, and am thinking about remaking it in waxed canvas (see post below) because I love it so much.

I really love the idea of harem pants like these, although I haven't seen them anywhere except the runway (here, Proenza Schouler resort 2009) I think they'd be pretty easy to sew up though.
Also on my list for the thrift stores: Large men's dress and plaid shirts and smallish blazers (to be worn over the shirts).

Waxed Canvas

2008-09-19T09:51:00.001-07:00

I'm looking for info on waxed canvas -- I had hoped to find some at the fabric markets in China -- I'd heard that they had EVERYTHING, but that wasn't the case. (Also, how do you say waxed canvas in Mandrin? It's hard to mime.) As I'm in NYC, I figure there has to be some somewhere, I just don't know where that is, and everyone I ask looks at me blankly. I've looked online, and can't find any either. Complicating the problem is that I only want a little bit for personal use, not production quantity.
Also, I was wondering if anyone had experience working with waxed canvas, and if there was ever a problem with the wax gumming up the sewing machine. I'e only used it once, and it didn't seem to be a problem, but it made me nervous. Any information would be great, thanks!

Needles and thread

2008-09-15T18:10:00.000-07:00

Here are two sites that have taught me more about trouble shooting needle and thread issues than anywhere else. Its amazing how important having the right set up is.

Pendelton Round Up

2008-09-15T12:44:00.000-07:00

Last week end I got to go to the Pendelton round up in Pendelton OR. It sure was fun. I went with my uncle Ted and his friend Spencer who works for Telemundo Portland and got us press passes. We also got to tour the Pendelton woolen mills. They do all the jacquard weaving at this location but all the plaids are done in Washington. Here are some pic of the giant looms. It takes six people two and half days to tie warp threads on.

This is all wool.

From left to right, My uncle Ted, Me, and Spencer. With our press passes.

Check out this guy's shirt.

My uncle got me a signed photo of this guy.

OhPauleez

2008-09-09T17:46:00.000-07:00

This guy (below :) anonymously purchased a hat from me about a year ago. I had forgotten about it until he dropped me an email and let me know that he wears it in many of his Etsy pictures. This makes me very happy since I've only made like twelve of these total and sold only half. I made a doozie of a pattern when I designed this hat. I don't even make them anymore because they are such a pain! It's good to know that the few who do own them, love them! I designed it for my fiance, and he looks super cute in it, and that's all that matters. But still, a little encouragement never hurts.

I feel an impulsive tattoo coming on.

2008-09-09T17:28:00.000-07:00

Now that is a passion for fabric that I simply had to share. No, those are not my arms, but I sure do like them.

Proenza Schouler

2008-09-09T02:29:00.001-07:00

A commentator on style.com described the Proenza show as Grace Jones meets Jerry Hall -- a little before my time but it seems pretty on the mark -- I'm only posting a couple pictures, but our studio patterned the vast majority of the pieces in the collection, and it's worth a look on style.com. Pretty fantastic, I'd love to meet the woman who can pull all the looks off.
Below are two jumpsuits I worked on. You may be thinking these are what I'm referring to when I mention being able to pull the looks off, but really, they're some of the less challenging pieces.

And below is one from the studio--not sure who worked on it, but it was quite a production, and it's one of my favorites. The detail at the chest is actually patent leather that is slit from the breastbone, and then twisted before being sewn into the armscye.

Sketch Experiment #2

2008-09-08T19:54:00.000-07:00

The color on this one got a little out of control pretty quickly. There's a lot I would do differently on my final sketch, so it made for a good learning experience.

Sketch experiment #1

2008-09-08T17:54:00.000-07:00

I am spending the day trying out various sketching techniques in order to establish a style for my senior collection. I will be posting them as I finish them, and would love feedback!

Mirror/Dash

2008-09-07T22:49:00.000-07:00

I'd be lying if I said I wasn't excited to see what Kim Gordon of Sonic Youth will be contributing to the fashion world. She is preparing to release her new line of clothing, Mirror/Dash.

Yes Hannah, I once again fail to repress my love for all that is Sonic Youth.

Jeanstuff.

2008-09-07T22:30:00.000-07:00

With apparent time on my hands, I have dived in head first to Fashion-Incubator, and for the first time. I had always heard that it was here where the secret to conquering camel toe lied. Anyhow, just wanted to concur on the subject, it is full of amazingly wonderful tips and insights! Here is what I sought tonight, but did not find, or perhaps overlooked:

I am currently venturing into jean-land, and with full confidence. I have a wonderfully fitting denim short that I've been wearing all summer, and now plan to step the pattern up a notch with more details. I have entire confidence in the pattern itself, but am now struggling with my inability to find an impressive denim. With such little selection in Portland, I am forced to look elsewhere, and am hoping I will simply know it when I see it. All I can find around here looks like it has a layer of paint on top of it. Oftentimes this paint is a bright blue. Or when I find a color that doesn't offend me, I am plagued by a ridiculous amount of stretch. I personally am offended by stretch in fabrics that are not knits. I understand it serves ready-to-wear well, but don't see where it has a place in fabric stores. Well, I guess it could be used to make tight 80's miniskirts. Anyhow, my options range from $6 to $10 a yard. This is so cheap, which leads me to believe that there are much higher quality denims out there for a still reasonable price, $25 would be fine with me. Does such a denim exist, and if so, how do I track it down. And what is it exactly? I know what I don't want, but am not sure what it is that I DO want? If anyone has any thoughts, I would love to hear them. Ultimately, I want to find something durable without being clunky.

Rain in Beijing

2008-09-07T06:35:00.000-07:00

I woke up to thunder and lightning and torrential downpours today. I didn't particularily want to go out, but the citizens of Beijing were out on the their bicycles and mopeds as usual, protected from the rain by nifty ponchos just like this one. They come in different colors, from kelly green to fushia to bright yellow, and I can apparently find them at any large supermarket. I went on a wild goose chase to find them this afternoon after the weather cleared, which involved renting a much too small bike from a street stand, biking all over the city in search of a bike shop, drawing a picture of a bicyclist in a poncho for the bike shop workers, who then conveyed that I needed to find a supermarket....by which point it was time to go have dinner. The search continues tomorrow.
Carly, if you want one to replace your oh so adorable rain miniskirt, let me know.

A. Wang

2008-09-07T06:04:00.001-07:00

We didn't end up working with Alexander Wang much this season, (long story, the details of which I don't know...), in the end I think we only made this piece below, which Isabel draped. I liked it a whole lot when she was working on it, it looked a lot more curvy and flattering - here the look is a little boxy, which may or may not be due to the model....it's so interesting to see a piece go from a dressmaker's form to a fit model to the runway model, because sometimes the feel of the garment changes surprisingly.

I briefly worked on the get-up below - I had to quit after only an hour or so because Alexander Wang decided to have it patterned elsewhere (I can confidently say this was not due to any lack of ability on my, or N.C.'s part). I was really disappointed because I had been excited to put my underwear making experience to use. Don't worry though Carly, the hours you logged figuring out the best way to sew a crotch panel will make it onto the runway yet!
(Backstory: Carly and I first became friends when, just after I started working with her as a seamstress at Beckel Canvas Products, she invited me over to her studio and taught me her tried and true method for underwear making.)
The original sketch had all-in-one t-shirt sleeves, which gave it a less swimsuit, more bodysuit feel, and instead of being pulled together at the belly-button with what looks like a band, it was twisted. I'm curious it the twist was eliminated for aesthetic reasons or because the twist made it difficult to get the bottom to sit right -- a problem I encountered right away.

Boy by Band of Ousiders

2008-09-07T04:25:00.000-07:00

Fresh off the runway! Here is one of the pieces I made this season, although I have to say that I'm not entirely pleased with the way it fits Ms. Dunst (yes, that is Kirsten D. modeling it). I distinctly remember not being given measurements for this piece -- I have a feeling that they hadn't chosen Ms. D to model yet, and the piece was fit on one of the design assistants. I wish there was a little more room in the hips to allow the skirt to really drape gracefully.

I didn't drape this dress below, I don't remember who did, but I like it -- Band of Outsiders had a few dresses that riffed on the traditional button-up shirt, with a skewed front like this, or another dress that was completely flipped around with the button placket in the back, or the one above, which was supposed to look like a button up shirt that had been cut off at the shoulders and then slipped down.

Living the high life

2008-09-05T02:14:00.000-07:00

I am enjoying the forth day of my luxury tour of China, compliments of my incredibly generous great uncle....
I arrived at my hotel in Beijing just now, and was directed to the elevator - "Just to your right, between the Chanel store and Harry Winston's."
Also present are Louis Vuitton and Hermes. Designer beauty prodocts in the bathroom and Evian and champagne in the mini-fridge. I spent my first morning in Hong Kong in a plush bathrobe moving from the pool to the hot tub, then a hot bath, and after slathering myself in every cream, lotion, toner, herbal mist, etc, available; drinking tea and eating asian pears and exploring the vast complimentary contents of my hotel room while looking out over hong kong bay and it's incredible skyline. I have the distinct feeling I will never live quite like this again, and I am indulging as much as possible.
As far as tutorials go, I am afraid that a very necessary cord has been left at home ---so no pictures can be downloaded into my computer. I have a lot of sketches drawn up but they will have to wait. On a happy note, fashion week is a mere 3 days away (but I am in China, which is a day ahead) and I am so excited to see our pieces in the flesh. I'll post them as they are put up on style.com. I'm hoping that most of them made it throught the rigorous pre-show editing process.

Interesting Links

2008-08-31T13:32:00.000-07:00

In the comments for why balance patterns helen left a
link about removing a fish eye dart from the rear of pants that I thought was a good, clean, demo on a rather complicated pattern alteration. On this same web site there are a lot of other little demos. I didn't find any that were quite so well explained but there were some interesting ones anyway, many of which explain a "Full Bust Alteration" . Regrettably this is not something I have trouble with but its good info for doing other people's clothes.

The next one I want to mention is IPCA which I found through FI's links. This web site which sells patterns made by independent seamstresses is mostly patterns for the older, home sewing, crowd but it is an interesting idea. It is a collection of small pattern companies with reasonably regulated pattern standards. One of the pattern makers is Coni Crowford. I once went to one of her seminars here in Portland. I was quite fun. I must say I didn't wind up learning much I didn't already know but it would be a great expose on pattern drafting for anybody wanting a leg up on their hobby.

There is good book on how to make dress shirts by David Coffin. It is also the only book on dress shirts that I can find. It contains a lot of good info but is terribly organized. If you happen to want to sit down and try making a shirt you will find your self flipping back and forth through the index and a variety of book marks trying to get from step to step. But I also found a video that how to copy a finished shirt pattern which I think is a good intro to copying garments but I don't agree with all of it. I am much more thorough about truing my patterns. I also use my front pattern to make my back pattern and then compare it to the shirt. On cheap shirts there is no guarantee that the pattern was accurate to begin with and copying can make things very distorted. I think the best shirts to copy are expensive checked shirts. The checks give you a built in grid for checking your seams. For another good intro to copying clothing check out this book which also has its own issues. I would recommend checking it out at the library because once you see how its done you will probably never need to crack the cover again.

Balancing Patterns

2008-08-25T19:58:00.001-07:00

There seems to be a lot of interest on the subject of balancing patterns, and I wanted to just leave a quick note saying that I'm really enjoying everyone's input and I am planning on writing a couple more posts (complete with slightly skewed sketches to illustrate and confuse everyone...) about balancing patterns with darts, princess seams, and more complicated shapes, as well as a tutorial on draping balanced sleeves.
Unfortunately I am extremely busy getting ready for a VERY exciting trip to China in a couple of days - yes, I will be visiting the fabric market in Shanghai - but I plan to use hotel and airport downtime to complete those posts. Thanks for the interest!

In God We Trust

2008-08-23T14:42:00.000-07:00

I went in to the boutique In God We Trust last night on my way home, I've been wanting to check it out because they're carrying a bunch of bags from Beckel Canvas -- the canvas and tent company that Carly and I used to work at together -- one of which is the bag that Carly designed that I've never seen. Our Thursday night drinking and discussing sessions (after which this blog is named) partially grew out of a need for feedback and ideas while Carly was designing and testing this bag.
Carly's bag is really cute, much more feminine than the classic Beckel bags, and I really liked the thin rolled straps. Carly I'm curious if you tested it out with a leather bottom, or had decided that a dark canvas bottom was the way you wanted to go? I do like the canvas, I just hadn't realized that was the fabrication based ont he photos.
The bags were featured prominently in the window - and it turns out that they're displayed in the window of the other downtown Soho store as well. The girl working, Brooke, told me that everyone LOVES the beckel bags, and comments on them often, which warmed my heart. Congrats Carly! The Williamsburg hipsters love your work!

This picture has been posted before, but here it is again - the one being dicussed is on the right.

Why Balance Patterns

2008-08-22T18:19:00.000-07:00

There have been two comments that I want to address. The first was left by Chrispy commenting on Hannah's balance sketch she said...
"Ok I understand the principle but why balance them. Is it so they lay better on the body?"

This is a complicated question to answer because there are different reasons for different aspects of balance. I want to preface all of with the fact that this is just my understanding and could be wrong. In this case we have lumped together a few different ideas so I'll try to address all of them.
Balance is:
1: Keeping your side seams parallel.
2: Making the front larger than the back.
3: Keeping your shoulder seams parallel.
4: Aligning grain along the side seam or any seam for that matter.

I'm going to start with 2 because its easier. The front needs to be bigger so you can breath. There is also an element of "Looking right". Even though the side seam is not exactly 1/4th of the way around your body it looks like it is. The greeks were really into this idea and made whole buildings that looked "right" but weren't. The columns got bigger at the top to make them look straight for example.

As for 3, this is a way to keep your shoulder seam straight. The length of the neck line and armsye shouldn't change just the orientation of where that shoulder seam connects to the neck and armsye. When that seam is straight the shoulders are parallel as in Hannah's balance sketch. In this diagram the black would be correct where as the blue and orange would not give you parallel shoulder seams. Hopefully from this you can imagine how you could move the orientation of your shoulder seam in order to make them parallel.

Now for the biggy #1
Why keep your sides seams parallel?

This is a diagram of "how a dart is born" from one of my favorite pattern manipulation books "Basic Pattern Skills For Fashion Design" by Zamkoff and Price. I think that it does a good job of explaining how taking a dart out of the front changes the grain line on the side seam. The green line comes from when you keep your cross grain parallel to the floor across the bust and around the back. This is only possible where the darts are taken out along the princess line. The other line is how the grain gets distorted when you take a dart out on just the bottom.

This is where my question to hannah came in. It is easy to fold up the dart and keep the side seams parallel but the way that it distorts the grain lines at the side seam is a choice that you have to make as a designer. For me it will depend on the design on the fabric for instance you could match the stripes at the side seam if there were no darts. It might also depend on how I might want to distribute the ease. If you have bias grain going across an area where you might need more room you could use the bias to reduce bulk.

4: I also like to think about the side seam being not so much a break where two pattern pieces come together but as a large dart that just isn't connected anywhere. If you imagine a standard fish eye dart where it goes from skinny to wider to skinny again, it would seem weird to not have it be symmetric. But if it was symmetric you could slice it down it center line and lay the two pieces on top of each other and they would be not just parallel but identical. This is what you are aiming for when you balance your patterns.

The other comment I wanted to respond to is about the gaping at the back of Taylor's dress. liron said...

"Great dress.
might I ask why you were worried about the side seam? I mean, why would there be a problem if you pinch the extra fabric from the center back and taper it to nothing on the side? (I am really asking as I am new to pattern making). You could also do it in more than one place-it just might give it some more balance (I think)."

I'm going to respond to this in the same post because it takes exactly the same sort of thought process to understand this issue as the balance stuff. This is not to say that its the same issue it just feels similar. so this is a sketch of the general shape of the back pattern piece of that dress.

If I just pinch out the part that's gaping I worry about the distortion it causes. This sketch is the same as the first with a dart removed at the place where its gaping. Its a little exagerated but I wanted you to be able to see it.
The issues that come up are the angle in the back line, the angle it put in the side seam, as well as general shifting of the grain along the whole top part of the pattern. My thought was to do it anyway because the amount I have to take out is so small (unlike this picture) and then just true up the pattern. It always bothers me though to feel like I'm letting things slide that could be understood so if anyone has any suggestions or knows why I should or shouldn't do it like this feel free to speak up.

This is pretty big for us

2008-08-22T18:05:00.000-07:00

I just wanted to say thanks to Kathleen for linking us to Fashion Incubator she has made it possible for our poor little blog to take it's first steps into the big world. I also want to thank her for her kind words about our work and our blog. We have been avid FI readers for quite some time and we are excited to be accepted as part of her web of awesome sewing information. It is also wonderful for us to make connections to other FI readers. We welcome comments of any sort and from anybody. I am happy to try to answer any questions asked and will try to get to things in a timely manner although life is always crazy. Also we are not the most computer savvy bunch and I apologize for any way that our blog might be difficult to navigate. It had worked for us until now but that might need to change. So if you have tips or advice about anything feel free to comment (although I can't promise I follow it). So welcome. Browse, peruse, and enjoy.
-Carly

Up date on Taylor's dress

2008-08-21T22:43:00.000-07:00

This version of the dress is made with an old sheet and lined with Hannah's fuchsia leopard print. It was made to double check the final fit of the dress and see if Taylor could ride her mini bike in it. Also the open back was an experiment to see if it would be over the top but I think it suits Taylor and the dress. As a "Wear around town" dress I really like it. The color combo of the green and the fuchsia is really fun. It also makes me excited about doing it in the final fabric which is going to be a sea foam green dupioni. As you can see from the pictures I'm going to deal with the gaping in the back opening and tension lines on the waist band. (This is why we make mock ups).
Its too bad about the purse strap because you can't get a good feel for the cowl, but trust me it looks really nice on her.

Portland Designers

2008-08-21T20:12:00.000-07:00

I wanted there to be some compiled info about those Portland designers that stand out to me. There's Adam Arnold who is known for his wonderful attention to detail and his special ability to make men look sexy. On a side note his studio is less than two blocks from my job and he has been reusing the same window displays lately. tisk tisk.
Adam Arnold

My new favorite is a broken spoke. If you want attention to detail this is it. If this man does anything but lock himself in a room matching stripes and counting stitches I will eat my hat. It's beautiful and even at the price he sells it at he can't be making any money so buy up now before he learns better.
A Broken Spoke

Then there is of course Leanne Marshall who is going on to project runway fame but whose fairy inspired Leanimal collections were the worst of DIY designer style. Although I will say that I have seen some stuff that was nice and her excessive use of ruffles can be interesting but there is no gaurantee that her choice of fabrics and proportion will be flatering.
Leanimal

Bottega bag

2008-08-21T17:19:00.000-07:00

I saw this in a fashion magazine the other day and it reminded me of your origami screen Carly-- but much much uglier. The plain brown leather version is more attractive, but apparently they didnt show that one on the runway.

shibori

2008-08-21T16:47:00.001-07:00

Last weekend I discovered a dying technique call Shibori, traditionally used to dye silks in Japan. I love the organic quality of the lines, how they're delicate and imperfect at the same time. My roommate Lillian and I have been playing around with dying 15 oz cotton canvas, for the purpose of sewing up some bags. So far we've only splattered and dunked canvas in bleach, (navy turns an intense rasberry color!) but we have plans for deep magenta and avocado dyes this weekend. It'll be intersting to see how the shibori techniques translate into heavy canvas, and also if we can manage to produce some patterns that are not in any way hippie/granola-esque.

2008-08-21T16:25:00.000-07:00

I wish I could find a better picture of this...it's a piece by polish artist Pawel Althamer, called "Skin" --currently exhibited at the New Museum in NYC. The whole thing, which is anatomically correct, is made from animal intestines. The photo I saw in the New Yorker shows it better, you can see the seams and construction more clearly. It raises a lot oF questions for me, such as - why did he decide on raglan sleeves? How much was the patterning of the piece dependant on the size of the intestines, and did he need to find really big animals? Also, im curious if he studied classic leather glove making techniques for the hands and feet. Did he pattern it all himself, or have help, and if so, did he sew it up himself? because it seems like finding someone to contract it out to might be difficult....
Also, how did he make the nipples?

Holy Crap 2!

2008-08-21T12:29:00.000-07:00

In other news, I am still in school. I have about a year left if you can believe that. I feel like I've been going forever. I am preparing to create my Senior Collection, which will actually walk down the runway next Spring. I am currently working on the concept, and began doing my sketches last week. I have always found inspiration boards to be a little cheesy, but i guess ideas have to come from somewhere. Anyway. I am taking inspiration from the circular fields as viewed from the air. Perhaps you've seen them from a plane while flying over the dry sunshiny states. They are formed by circular irrigation techniques, and form a huge irregular polka-dotted pattern over large spans of land. I found it remarkable how they resembled sequins, yet the two are polar opposites. The graphic appeal of the fields is a side effect of their function, and sequins intentionally create sparkle and glamor. Here is what I have so far, although I expect it to change and evolve as it develops. It reflects my color palette somewhat accurately also. This board is still in a serious state of flux, including the name, font, and general layout. Any feedback is welcome.

This board will be accompanied by three or four more, including a color and fabric board, a technical flats board, and another one with the clothing on the figures. Overall I will be designing four ensembles. It will be a high end line of women's clothing with an androgynous feel. I plan to use very muted, non-shiny sequins sparsely, and include a some broad graphic screen printing. It will generally have circularly inspired seamlines and stylines without being too blatant. I plan to use mostly natural fibers, specifically cotton, silk, and wool. I would also like to include some hats, belts, bags, and possibly some handknits. Holy crap, right?! We'll see how it goes!

What else? Briefly...

I sent a letter to Adam Arnold today, to ask him for an internship. This is something I've been talking about for like a year, and I'm very happy to have finally done it. So, put some good juju out there for me on that one, cuz it would be awesome!

I'm planning a trip to LA at the end of September to shop for fabric. So if you have any inside tips, please let me know... Or if you're interested in joining me!

And I have a new favorite drink that I recommend. I had it for the first time at PokPok. It 's Plum Wine topped off with a reasonable amount of soda water, and lots of ice. Super easy and delicious. I know it's like technically Fall now, but it's a good Summer drink!

I may seem invisible, but want you guys to know that I'm always checking out your entries. You guys are doing a great job on all your projects, and are inspirations to me! Thanks for being such wonderful girls! You make womankind proud!

Holy Crap!

2008-08-20T17:56:00.000-07:00

Yes! I'm still alive! And rather than make gradual entries explaining the various projects in my life, I'm going to post one big one!

What have I been up to? Well, I work at a dog supply store, believe it or not. This takes a little imagination for some, and I'll try to keep it brief. Basically the owners have two businesses, one being a retail store, and the other a doggy apparel company. As I'm sure you guessed, they have a room in the back of their retail store that's filled with wonderful industrial sewing machines, fabric, patternmaking supplies, and a wealth of budding product ideas. This is where I hang out, like a weird secretive teenager or something. They hired me to do random sewing jobs and product development. (I swear it gets more interesting if you hang in there). All of this was with the promise of the opportunity to design down the road somewhere. I do occasionally make dog coats, but they actually have them produced by a factory in California. They actually have quite a large stock of them, and sell them all over the country and in catalogs. This is Marnie.

Out of a general love for dogs, the owners have taken an interest in the African Wild Dogs, who are very amazing and sadly endangered animals. In order to raise money for the African Wild Dog Project, they designed a fleece fabric that looks like their beautiful marbleized furry coats. They also have big ears. See how cute?

Well that's Marnie again, but Wild Dogs too. ANYwho... it was my job to help design garments out of this fabric. Fleece not ever being a first choice of mine, was a bit of a challenge at first, but I've gotten more used to it. They coat that Marnie is wearing is the Cozy Coat pattern that they've been using for years. I didn't have anything to do with the design of that. I was very excited to design actual people clothes! That's right, for people, not dogs. I usually have to run that by people twice. There are companies out there who make hoodies for dogs, but we are not one of them. At any rate, we developed a pattern for a women's zip-up hoodie, which came out very nicely. I designed arm warmers, a hat, a child's hoodie, and am working on a Men's hoodie. I wish I had a picture of the women's one, because it is a little difficult to imagine, but very nice. The shoulders, sleeves, and hood are made of the AWD fabric, and the body is made of black fleece. It has a nicely fitting contoured hood, with raglan sleeves in the back. The front is a combined raglan and yoke, making the sleeve one continuous piece from center front, down the sleeve, and around to the back. It's nice and long and fits closely (aka not frumpy!) and has a large kangaroo pocket as well. What else? Well, I'll have to post a pic later. Thanks for humoring me, fellow patternmaking geeks! Here is a picture of the Children's one I did. Oh, and my adorable nieces who agreed to model them for $2 each! Warning: cute little "ear gimmick"!

The idea is to sell them wherever we can, hopefully even zoo gift-shops and the like, and donate a percentage or a dollar amount to the cause. Here's a link for more info on the African Wild Dog Project: www.save-the-african-wild-dog.com

Oh yeah, and I am currently working on doggy shoes! They present interesting patternmaking challenges. So far we've come up with an interesting moccasin style boot!

Goat Rocks

2008-08-19T12:15:00.000-07:00

Last week end I went hiking with my dad, his friend, and various friends and family. We went to the goat rocks wilderness area. Its a beautiful area full of craggy peaks and alpine wildflowers. Its right near Mount Rainier with wonderful views of the mountain. My dad's friend lives in france with his french wife and their two teenage sons.
Us hiking

Our campsite

MT Rainier

from left to right we have simon, Eric, Ellen, my sister Olivia, Me, Pete, Sam (Pete's brother), and Elaine.

Jil Sanders collars

2008-08-12T17:52:00.000-07:00

Have I mentioned that I love Jil Sanders. I know Hannah doesn't totally understand my affection but the attention to detail, the quality fit, and pattern work makes me weak in the knees. Check out these collars. Although I think the men's line looks aweful.

Things I need to learn

2008-08-12T12:32:00.000-07:00

Because of my job I need to learn Adobe Suite. Susanna makes all kinds of drawings and tech packages and what not and I would be more useful to everyone if I could do some of that work for her. Susanna had a great idea to help me learn. She says I should make a booklet on how to make a dress shirt. I think its a fantastic idea. I'm going to write it for the "some but not much" sewing skill level. If anybody would like a copy when I'm done I would be happy to distribute it. just send me your address to carlymick@gmail.com or post it in the comments. I might even be able to post some pages as it goes along.

balancing patterns

2008-08-09T13:35:00.000-07:00

Here's a kind of crappy sketch to illustrate the basic principle behind balancing a pattern - the pencil represents the front bodice pattern piece and the green line represents the back bodice placed over the top.

Doing it small, without the gridded dot paper I usually use meant that thiings ended up a little out of proportion, but I think you'll get the idea. Basically you want you back to be parallel with you front, but 1/4" tp 1/2" smaller. You lay the back pattern, face down, over the front pattern, liing up the center fronts and center backs (which generally will also be the grain) as well as the waist and bust lines. Tke your shoulder lines and move them so that they are parallel with each other with the front bigger than the back, but make sure as you move them you're not changing the measurement of the armhole or neckline.
Do the same with the side seam, again, making sure youre maintaining the same total original measurement. This is sometimes easiest if you draw a line directly in between the two lines, trace it off with a tracing wheel, and then re-draw your side seams, etc, the desired distance inside or outside of that line.
Theat's the basics, more to come.