I had a really tough time with the sleeves on both of these jackets, probably for the most part because of my extremely limited draping experience. The armpit was so hard for me on the doublebreasted one, from Peter Som. It sounds silly, but it's so hard to see in there! If you lift the arm up it distorts everything, and you no longer know if the fit or how the fabric is lying is right, but if you don't lift it up, you can't tell what the hell is going on. I spent much too much time on the armpit and in the end learned that once again, intuition is best --
The raglan sleeves on this coat from Thakoon were difficult for me, because I was trying so hard to avoid that big flap of fabric at the armpit that so often happens with raglan sleeves. Also, the sleeves were supposed to be fairly wide, but fitted at the shoulder, and it was tough to achieve both of those without the sleeves becoming more of a flared shape than wide.
The sketch of this coat was actually more exciting to me than the final version is. The collar here seems to collapse on itself, but in the sketch it looked like a big fold-over collar, and the whole piece itself was much bigger and more Dior 1950's-esque (okay, I only say that because one of the inspiration photos I was given was an old Dior shot form the 50's - it was a gorgeous coat).
What about the final fabric on this one? I'm not sure about that herringbone running over the shoulder like that.